HOLLAND may certainly be called the skater's paradise. If the mountains of Switzerland from which the Rhine springs, charm the Alpine climber, assuredly the frozen waterways of Holland delight the skater. At the source of the Rhine is a country where it is almost impossible to obtain a level cricket pitch ; at its mouth only a few sand banks and dykes break the line of the horizon.
Holland may be almost termed the estuary of the Maas, Rhine, Ems, and Issel, which, carrying the waters of Germany, Switzerland, Belgium, and France, threaten to inundate and make Holland a swamp, while the relentless billows of the North Sea washing its eastern coast demand admittance to the home from which they have been evicted by the hardy Dutchmen. Upon its system of drainage and dykes depends the very existence of Holland. It has been described as being anchored in the North Sea. Rivers made by means of banks or dykes, thrown up to give the necessary fall to the sea, carry the water from the uplands at a high level through the country, and form the great highways for drainage and commerce. Every schoolboy knows of the great sea dykes which are able to enforce Canute's command to the ocean, 'Thus far and no farther.' Having thus disposed of other nations' water, and kept the sea at bay, all the rain which falls in Holland is pumped up into canals, some of which drain into these rivers, and some into bigger main canals emptying themselves at low tide into the sea. Rivers, large and small canals, drains and ditches cover like a spider's web the face of the land, "all of them under the most complete control of the wonderful Dutch engineers. We say ' England rules the waves.' When crossing to Holland I have often wished she did exert this influence ; but once there the inland waters are found to be in complete subjection.
Illustrations of skating in Holland usually centre round a picturesque figure of a woman carrying her basket of butter and eggs to market. The writer has, however, never seen this familiar dame with her dairy produce, but he has seen her busy with knitting needles as she swings gracefully along on skates. He does not, however, propose to give an exhaustive description of Dutch skating, but to describe what he has witnessed during many skating expeditions all over the country, and he hopes that information may be furnished that will be of use to anyone who wishes to explore its frozen waters.
One must not mix up the people who live east of the Zuyder Zee with those of South Holland. The former are an agricultural race called Frieslanders or Fries, who claim us as brothers from similarity of character, habits, and language. They doubtless exported speed-skating into the Fens, for the Fries style of skating is like the Fenman's, being straight and go-ahead. The thin blades of their skates lie flat on the ice, while their more southern countrymen prefer a thicker and slightly curved iron, and skate at a slower pace, swinging along, rolling from side to side in long curves on the outer edge, following the direction in which their strokes naturally propel them. The Southerner does not care to hold to a straight course ; he enjoys the luxury of his ' Dutch roll ' too much. The difference in style is soon seen by their swept courses. The straight-going Fries only sweeps for himself narrow paths on the ice, whilst down south broad ways are the order of the day.
It is these swept courses which make Holland such a skater's paradise. Many countries, such as Norway, Canada, etc.., have severer winters, but the cold brings snow, and when once there is a heavy fall, it is only possible to skate on rinks or swept courses. No country in the world has such a system of clearing away snow as Holland, It is necessary to keep the highways open for traffic ; and, as you skate from town to town, and find everywhere ice clear from snow, be thankful, but do not imagine it is for the benefit of such pleasure-seekers as you and I. Far into the country where villages are miles apart, immediately after a fall of snow the busy sweeper is at work, and during the day the icy track is laid bare. In large towns where traffic is heavy, sweeping is not sufficient ; the roughness of the ice is levelled down by big planes, and the cracks filled up by pouring hot water into them at night, so as to allow the loaded sledges to be easily drawn along. In England, after a slight thaw, the river often rises, half melting the snow in some places, in others covering the ice inches deep with water ; the frost returns at night only to make skating the more impossible. One is very rarely thus cheated in Holland, for the rivers, being on a dead level, and the sluice gates closed, the water never rises.
Having over-night looked into the papers to see what is going on and examined the map, we decide upon a skating tour. Rising early (never early enough, as we find out by the end of the day) we load our outer pockets with cents, and on tram or by walking reach the outskirts of the town (if it is a large one) ; but if in Friesland we may, if we like, tumble almost straight out of bed on to the ice. ' Sache une pour soi ' is the order of the day : that is, ' Put on your own skates even if you are a lady,' as is the Dutch custom. True you may find gangways, steps, planks, etc. leading down to the ice, and seats and forms on the ice, but you must put your own skates on. You are expected to give a cent to the plank-man and the sweepers as you pass them. There is no need to stop when giving ; after a little practice a cent may be thrown into the sweeper's hat at full speed. One is glad to get clear of the dirty snow and thronged way of the town, and strike out on the clean ice of the country. Here the many tracks which cross and recross the river will have converged into one main course. It is well to keep to this course, unless indeed there is no snow to hide the ice, for by cutting out a fresh track of your own you may break your nose or lose a tooth.
Be sure to provide yourself with a large map of the waterways and look out the route before starting. One can often pronounce a Dutch name to one's own satisfaction, but not to the recognition of a native, and in such cases, by pointing it out on the map, the sweeper, or stall-man, will show you not only the way, but the way where the ice is best, or it may be a short cut unmarked on the map. These stalls are a great feature. Often they are mere shelters of plaited reeds and without roof, though along beaten tracks one finds well-protected wayside inns. In populous districts these booths abound, tempting the lazy to rest and the thirsty and hungry to satisfy their needs. Inside these shelters will be found forms, chairs, two or three Dutch boys, and the landlord. Before him on the table are a lot of cups and saucers. Each cup and saucer is of different make, colour, and age, the remnants of ancient sets. A big copper kettle, containing boiling milk or coffee, or milk alone, rests on the fire behind Mynheer, while the eatables are represented by heavy biscuits and heavier gingerbread cakes. Some ' swell ' booths provide schiedam, schnapps, warm wine, bread and cheese, and ham ; some only the inevitable kettle which is filled with aniseed milk. It is never worth while to carry solid provisions, you can always depend upon getting a meal at one of these stalls, and, if you know Dutch, enjoy the jokes and good humour of the people, who, in their keen interest for everything connected with skating, will carefully examine you, your get-up, and your skates. The writer has had in Friesland two or three hundred people catch up his feet as he has sat upon a bank in the midst of a crowd, and they have discussed and examined his skates and person until he doubted to whom he belonged.
Besides water, another important national slave is the wind. When travelling along these raised waterways, some twenty feet above the surrounding land, in almost every part of Holland the horizon seems studded with windmills. Far and near, like sentinels watching the welfare of the inhabitants, they patiently wait for every breath of wind to use in raising the water from the low-lying lands, or to grind corn or cut wood, etc. They are of all sizes, some like mere toys, and some, like the proverbial Dutchman, large and comfortable looking ; others appear mere skeletons with the working parts all exposed ; others, again, are substantial dwelling-houses, well protected from the weather by reed thatching. All seem to understand their work, and, excepting when the owner forgets, every now and then, to grease the working parts, they never so much as grumble, or strike, should the wind employ them night and day successively. In some parts every field has a windmill, in others a big engine does the work of the neighbourhood. One might almost say, what with the use of the wind for driving windmills, the barges in summer, and the sledges over the frozen waters in winter, that not a breath of wind is wasted in this thrifty country.
High up, so that one skates on a level with the eaves of the houses (unless, indeed, the houses are built, as is often the case, on the banks themselves), one is greatly exposed to the wind. For, so perfect is the system of drainage that, unlike our Fen rivers, there is no need to provide banks high above the water Q to prevent a sudden overflow after heavy rain. Along some of our Fen rivers one feels shut in from the outside world, like a train passing through a cutting ; but in Holland the three or four foot bank allows the skater a full view of the surrounding country.
In no method of progression is one so much affected by the wind as in skating, or so ready to seek shelter from it under the lee of another skater. It is obviously unfair to take all the advantage of his protection without sharing in the extra labour of facing the wind. Here, again, our economical friends teach us a lesson. One can see batches of skaters swinging along against the wind in single file, a pole under their right arms, skating together stroke for stroke as one man. It will be easily seen that those who take shelter under the leader by means of this pole, help him along. Coming down wind, the whole thing is reversed ; it is now a broadside and not a single file, with the pole held abreast of them, and instead of keeping a straight line, the batch rolls from side to side as if to prolong the enjoyment of going with the wind. It is then that a Dutchman looks the happiest man in the world. These skating poles are quite an institution ; they have a knob at each end, and are painted with bands of colours running spirally from end to end like a barber's pole. Every lad possesses one, and is proud of it, has his favourite colour, and, of course, his name in large letters painted on it at one end. He would as soon be seen without his pole as a Londoner without his top hat. One of the first things noted when going down to the ice is the number of skating poles carried over the shoulder, from which the skates hang down the back, whilst at large skating rinks, as at Amsterdam, etc., a great heap of poles may be seen which are let out by the hour.
I have often doubted whether it were possible to get drowned in Holland. Certainly no Dutchman should, nor need any foreigner, if he is the least observant. Should any part of the ice between, say, two villages be unsafe, reeds are carefully cut and placed as a barrier to warn the skater.
HOLLAND Notices are put up, and, under bridges, planks and handbridges are placed, often with straw to cover the boards for the protection of the skates. At other places, where it is necessary to get off or cross over a bank, the thoughtful Dutchman has strewn the way thick with straw or reeds. Of course the grateful skater will not begrudge a cent (one-fifth of a penny) to those who provide such accommodations.
Let us now get a glimpse of this thrifty nation out on holiday. After work is over, men and girls come trooping down to the ice to skate round the village course. In England every village has its green or common, in Holland every village has its water common in summer and ice common in winter. Upon this ice common a course is marked out by stakes and decked with flags, and is used for the village races. One may often in passing through a village see the prizes, which are to be competed for during the evening or the next day, stretched high upon poles across this straight course, and well out of reach, with groups of boys wistfully looking up at the coveted articles, discussing the merits of the skaters, or, suddenly becoming excited by a desire to win, madly rushing up and down the course for practice. An important race is often held on a large lake conveniently situated for the neighbouring villages, and draws thousands of spectators from ten and twenty miles' distance. From all parts they stream in. The squire and his wife wrapped in furs, riding in a sleigh, and drawn by a pair of horses ; the sturdy farmer in his brightly painted family 'carriage,' driving his high-stepping black horse, bedecked with bright coloured streamers, and jingling with sleigh bells ; the hardy buxom country lass with her gold or silver helmet, and lace headgear, and numberless skirts, hand in hand with her young man in flannel knickerbocker suit and round fur flowerpot-shaped cap ; the ' swell ' in black velveteen coat and short breeches with long black streamers hanging from the knees, fancifully knitted stockings and bright buckled shoes. There is sure to be a band somewhere, for the Dutch are intensely fond of music, and if the lake be large, some ice yachts may be seen skimming along with the grace and ease of a seagull. The contests consist of sleigh racing, competitions for men, and racing in pairs for men .and women. The sleighs generally come first, and one is much struck by the size of the horses and the smallness of the conveyances. Trotting along at tremendous speed for only some two hundred yards, the whole race is over in a few seconds ; the spur break is dug into the ice and soon the bell announces a second spurt. After half-an-hour's interval the more popular competitions begin. Big, powerful men, some old reputed champions with no anxiety on their faces, others looking nervous, as it is their first 'fling,' fly over a 160 metre (about 175 yards) course in pairs and heats. It is a marvellous thing to see heavy men, some over forty years old, speeding down the course like Sheffield sprinters, sometimes skating, it is said, 100 heats in one day. As straight as an arrow they go, kicking their heels up behind as they strike violently backwards, and their arms flung wildly from side to side. At half the distance the race is often won, and the victor, completely master of his rival, eases up and only wins by a yard. At another time it is a neck and neck struggle, and amid the shouts of the crowd they come in almost a dead heat, the indicating machine at the finish alone being able to decide upon the winner. This indicating machine is admirable, and indeed indispensable for such short races. Standing between the two courses, two threads are stretched one on either side of the machine, and fastened on the outside of each course to a stake. The contrivance has two white discs, which, when set ready for the next race, have two moveable black discs to cover them. The strings on either side of the machine hold a catch and prevent the black discs from falling and exposing the white discs. As the moveable discs can only fall inwards, and then only one at a time, and as in falling one prevents the descent of the other, it is almost impossible for a dead heat to be registered, and the first skater who touches the thread, releasing the disc on his side, proves himself the winner.
Towards the evening young men's and girls' races will come on. Having chosen partners, the competitors get ready at the starting point. A rigged- up canvas protection forms a dressing room, where the girls divest themselves of as much clothing as is convenient, and of as many skirts as they can well spare ; then, grasping the right hands of their partners, and close behind them stroke for stroke, at the word of command they rush off. Not troubled with too much sentiment, nor requiring too much consideration, these Fries lasses are, on skates, the wonders of the world. Their speed is often equal, and sometimes even superior, to that of the young men with whom they race.
When skating in Holland, be careful how you show off your speed before a lady, or you may have the pleasure of following in her wake instead of being her leader. The tale goes, that the winner of an international race, who, with a girl as partner, won many prizes, was one day bragging of his victories, when someone, to reprove his vanity, declared it was the young lady, not he, who won them. This led to much wrath on his part, especially when the girl herself declared he did not pull her, but she pushed him along. Nothing would satisfy the company but a race between them. Alas for our champion and the dignity of his sex ! He was beaten. Often in the short races the winning and starting posts alternate, and it is necessary for the winner to excel both ways of the course, or to win in the best out of three courses. This is to counteract any advantage or disadvantage which the wind, or course, or accident might give ; the crowd is also kept from thronging too much at one end. Women's races have been held since the great race at Leeuwarden, on February 1, 1805, which was won by Trijntje Pieters, of the village of Poppingawier, a girl of twenty winters.
It is said that during a good winter like that of 1890-1, some makers sell more than 10,000 pairs of skates. Thousands upon thousands collect at the important races, and discuss the merits of their favourite skaters, and yet, much to their credit, the curse of betting is unknown. All is done from the true love of sport. At the first Great International Race it is calculated that 100,000 people were present, and hundreds of sleighs drawn by horses ; and no one who witnessed the excitement when the last foreigner was beaten could doubt the national sentiment. A description of the Great International Race at Heerenveen will illustrate this.
The severity of the weather during last winter rendered it possible to carry out this meeting without hindrance, and for completeness and extensiveness of arrangement, it was probably the grandest series of races ever held.
On December 16, with Smart and See fresh from St. Moritz (where by generous help I had been able to send them to train), we trudged through the small town of Heerenveen, and after skating about a mile, saw in the distance the scene of the morrow's contest. A little to our right the horizon was studded with large national flags. As we neared, shorter and smaller flags came in view, and upon turning suddenly to the right, the whole lake widened out before us, bedecked with coloured bunting. It was a bright, glistening expanse of ice, swept and scraped, reflecting the waving banners which almost made the ice warm with their colours. Beyond, the sky, intensely blue, met the pure white snow-covered pastures or tufted reed beds at the horizon. It was a most charming and fairy-like scene never to be forgotten.
The courses were in the middle of the lake. A big outer circle of wire fencing enclosed an inner circle, so as to form the outside racing course, and within this again were other tracks. This outside course was divided into two tracks, and had two parallel sides running north and south, about 100 yards apart, joined by curves at each end, altogether rather more than a mile round.
The starting place for the mile and two-mile races was at the western side, at the northern end of the course. At the eastern side of the southern end, after completing the curve, the mile course left the outside and came diagonally back again to the starting place, forming the well-known horseshoe mile course. Half way up the western side was another starting place, and another return horseshoe track for the boys' race, 3/8 of a mile in length. Inside, and parallel to the eastern side, was a straight 1/4-mile track, divided by cubes of ice into three courses ; for the starters' and judges' boxes were so built that the officials and timekeepers watched the races high up above the crowd.
At the starting end were a dressing room and refreshment pavilion for the skaters and officials, a committee tent, and a grand music stand. By payment the spectators were allowed inside the outer roping ; beyond this the lake was free to all. Outside the ice were more stands and pavilions, viz. two large refreshment places, outhouses, tobacconist-shop, another band stand, tool-house, etc., and house for the sweepers, and so forth. The whole was laid out on a magnificent scale, and could not have cost less than 1,000., all for the sake of two days' racing.
In good time on the morning of the race all were astir. At about nine a parade took place. A military band of music, preceded by the banners of the Thialf Club, headed a procession of some hundred sweepers carrying skating poles ; then came the officials of the Thialf Skating Club, decorated with their club colours, another band bringing up the rear. After parading the town, the sweepers skated to the course. Here streams of skaters were arriving from all parts of Friesland and Holland. It was estimated that there were 50,000 or more spectators. The refreshment contractors, who had provided ham sandwiches, coffee, schnapps, etc., for 20,000, were completely 'eaten out.' No one who has not seen the Fries on a great skating race-day can imagine how intense is their interest in this pre-eminently national sport. On everyone's face is a happy, determined-to-be-pleased expression, for not a man, woman, or child, but is a born skater. The name of Mr. Donoghue was in everyone's mouth after the first day's racing. After dining, a public assembly was held in the Posthuis ; here every imaginable toast was drunk, in every sort of wine and spirits, and in French, Dutch, German, and English languages, accompanied by musical honours and national anthems.
Next day, just before the greatest race of the meeting for the Professional Championship a sudden and blinding fall of snow came down. A troop of sweepers were soon busy, but, coming first on the programme, George See and Vrouwes had to plough through the snow, which necessarily affected their times, but very soon the sweepers had the courses quite clear again.
Curiously enough, the four best times came out in pairs. James Smart and Marten Kingma both with 3 min. 14$ sec., and G. See and Von de Schaaf 3 min. 19 sec. Who would win ? Smart or Kingma? The dense mass of spectators became denser and more excited. Kingma competed against See in the final, with the result that both did better time than previously, Kingma 3 min. 84 sec., See 3 min. i if sec. It was a splendid race. Kingma skated grandly, and was the first Dutchman to beat See. The officials were in danger of losing their characteristic gravity, and thought their champion must win. As the times were hoisted on the scoring board in view of all, from mouth to mouth everyone passed the word until the whole multitude seemed to shout Kingma will win ! Kingma must win ! Kingma has won ! I shall never forget the last race. I did my very best to encourage Smart, though I knew the odds seemed against him, and trembled as I saw his pale yet determined face as he started off. He soon left Von Schaaf far behind, and both disappeared in the haze. It seemed ages before they came into sight again ; not a sound was to be heard, all, as still as death, were straining their eyes to get the first glimpse of the returning skaters. Fortunately our stop watches remained cool, and as I saw Smart loom in the distance, skating with vigour, I hoped he might, thought he would, and yes ! knew he must win ; and he did ! My stop watch showed 3 min. 7 sec. The Union Jack was hoisted in his honour. Thousands crowded round, congratulated Smart and claimed him as their champion, and much to the credit of those who had hoped for his rival's success, not a word of disappointment was uttered. A crowd instinct with such genuine sporting feeling is seldom found, and would be an honour to any country.
The champion short-distance skaters of the present day are, Renke van der Zee, Peter Kingma, Weibe de Vries, Marten Castelein, W. Zijlstra, T. B. Veninga, Okke van den Berg, of whom Renke van der Zee was chosen to represent Holland against the Norwegian in 1885. But to Englishmen the best known skaters are Arie van den Berg and the Kingma brothers. Arie van den Berg was born at Benthuizen in 1852, in midwinter. He was nineteen years old when for the first time he won the first prize in a race at Zoetermeer, January 13, 1871. Broadening and thickening, he became one of the most powerfully built men in Holland, weighing some 96 kilogrammes, and standing 5 feet 9^ inches high. Yet with all his strength he had that ' go ' and activity which is so indispensable in the short Dutch races. He has placed the following first prizes to his credit : two at Zevenhuizen, one at Nieuwerkerk, one at Gouda, one at Kralingen, one at Oudshoorn, one at Nieuwerburg, three at Paanacker, one at Leiden, two at Sloterdiijk, one at Weesperkarspel, one at Haarlem etc., etc. He was the champion of South Holland ; for it is probable that in Friesland there were one or two skaters who could always defeat him over the 160-metre courses.
It was in the International races, where the courses were a mile and over, that our hero showed to such advantage, and found no equal in Holland.
Van den Berg was thirty-four years of age when he won the first prize at Hamburg in '1886, and again the following year he defeated the famous Norwegian, Harald Hagen, on January 1 8, covering a mile in 3 min. i6isec. Returning a month later, he and B. Kingma met Smart and See at Slikkerveer, where they suffered defeat in the long distances, but won as they liked in the 320-metre race. It was only when thirty-six years of age that Van den Berg allowed the young man Benedictus Kingma to overhaul him in these long-distance contests. No one knows how many prizes he has won altogether.
The next best known skaters are the Kingmas of Grouw ; the United States has its three Donoghue brothers, England its three Smarts, and Holland its three Kingmas. Benedictus, Merk, and Marten are all first-class skaters, and fine active men, worthy of the esteem in which they are held. Benedictus, who was born on Christmas eve, 1859, is the best known. Although in a youth's race he won a first prize, little notice was taken of him until at Leeuwarden in 1885, when he met and beat George Smart. Since then he has represented Holland in its International races. Merk is a very fine skater and has on occasions beaten his brother.
But it is Marten who is now the pride of Holland. Two years ago he was sent by the Dutch N.S.A. with Mr. K. Pander to St. Moritz to train, but had no opportunity of proving what benefit it did him. Again last year (1890) he went to train with Mr. Houtman, to Norway, and though his practice was cut short by early frost and racing in December, his merits as a distance skater were seen to advantage at Heerenveen, for in the mile race no other Dutch skater could come within 1 1 sees, of his time. He defeated George See and only suffered defeat from James Smart. No one in Holland but Mr. Pander can keep pace with him for any distance over half a mile, though in a i6o-metre course a good many are his superiors. Racing in long Norwegian skates, he has specially practised long-distance skating, and unfitted himself for the short races. The six best milers in Holland may perhaps be placed in this order of merit : first Marten Kingma, second Weibe de Vries, R. Westra, Benedictus, and Merk Kingma, and third Arie van den Berg whilst Klass Hanje of Dokkum, and B. Dekker of Zwolle, are the best i6o-metre sprinters.
Of the amateurs Mr. K. Pander of Haarlem is pre-eminent. He stands in the front rank of the amateurs of the world. His best performance was in 1889-90 after returning from a month's training at St. Moritz, when he won the J mile and i mile in the International races. Well-built and very active, he excels in many other sports, though he is best known to us as a skater.
As one would expect, it is usual in Holland to make skating expeditions and visit friends who live in far off towns and villages, and there are some enthusiasts who are ambitious of performing long-distance feats. One of these feats is to visit in one day the eleven towns of Friesland, a distance which must be close upon 80 miles. Mr. W. J. H. Mulier of Haarlem accomplished this last winter in 13 hours, of which 1 hr. 55 min. was taken up in resting and consuming, etc., and he has kindly given me the following particulars.
It is necessary to have good ice, practically clear of snow, a full moon, bright sky, and plenty of previous practice. The best record is twelve hours. From Leeuwarden to Dokkum I found the ice exceedingly bad. I had ordered at Bolsward a guide to show me across the lakes, etc., but he could not go with me, and I had to lose forty minutes in looking for another man.
He took the following course :
Starting at Leeuwarden, skated to Dokkum, returned again to Leeuwarden, thence to Harlingen on the Zuider Zee via. Franeker, turning down south vii Bolsward, Workum, Hindeloopen, to Stavoren on the Zee, facing to the left to Sloten via Balk, round the Sloten Lake, and again over the lake to Ijlst, thence by Sneek to Leeuwarden and home again.
The route and even the towns visited are, I understand, sometimes varied. No Englishman as yet has been credited with the accomplishment of this feat. Who will be the first ?
Another great feat is to skate from Hague to Leeuwarden great, because it is necessary to cross the Zuider Zee, and this is only possible after an exceptionally severe frost. Last winter six men walked across from Enkhuisen to Stavoren in 8 hours. The ice was quite safe, but too rough for skating. It is on record that one Reindert Reinders of Jaure delivered in one day, during the winter of 1763-4, a letter from Stadtlander William IV. to his mother at Hague, returning again to Leeuwarden across the Zee from Enkhuisen to Stavoren, considered to be a forty hours' walk. W. Koopmans of Bolsward made a similar journey with important state papers, starting from Leeuwarden at 6 A.M., and returning home again at 9 P.M. During a severe frost it is possible to skate south from Rotterdam to Bremen.
Trips may be made all over Holland, but the best centres are up in Friesland. From the two capitals, Leeuwarden and Groningen, any number of expeditions can be taken. The people being the most enthusiastic skaters in the world, every provision is made for skating. Here children can skate before they can read or almost walk. All business is done on skates, and on Sunday thousands travel thus to service, leaving their skates in a large heap in the lobby of the church. It is literally true that the Fries tie on their skates by their fireside, step on the ice, and without even untying them, kick them off again through the open door upon reaching home again.
A most interesting week might be spent in coasting along the eastern shores of the Zuider Zee, and visiting those romantic dead cities, Harlingen, Hindeloopen, Stavoren, Kampen, and Harderwijk. Each of these places is full of historic memories, curious habits, picturesque costumes, and artistic buildings. Every detail of life will charm the visitor. Another enjoyable tour can be taken from Amsterdam, without the necessity of an extra day's travelling so far north as Friesland, and as these trips are so accessible, the writer thinks a short account of the expeditions he has made will show what may be expected.
I left London one evening at 8 P.M., and arrived at Leiden next morning at about 11 A.M., when I was soon on the ice and striking out for Amsterdam. There are two ways of reaching that city, one via Haarlem, the usual way, and the way which I took, to the southeast of the once famous Haarlem Meer. It was my first skate of the season, the ice was splendid, my skates sharp, and the air keen. Reaching de Kaag, I found, just beyond, a native on Fen skates, and congratulated him upon his choice. His only answer was, ' They go precious hard ! ' And no wonder, for he was wearing list shoes, and had his whole weight rested upon the sharp pointed heel screw. Dutch skates have no heel spikes. At Alsmeer I sat down inside a booth, had some coffee and gingerbread, and entertained a crowd of youngsters. Continuing I met a lot of sledges pushed along by men wearing ice-spikes. The sledges were loaded with billet wood, straw, hay, reeds, grocery, baskets, etc. Soon after this I overtook a party of sportsmen or poachers, carrying guns, and weighed down with hares, pheasants, and other game. Nearing Amsterdam I was greatly amused to see a man with a wooden leg, perched high upon a stool, shod with ice runners ; he was shoving himself along at a merry pace, whistling a jig. Amsterdam was reached in about 2-1/2 hours, a short first day's skate of over twenty miles.
The other route via Haarlem I have often skated. Once the excursion was in the company of the late Baron de Salis, Mr. Neville Goodman, and Mr. J. van B. Wickers, all so well known for promoting international skating, my sister and an artist friend also accompanying us. As we started from Amsterdam a strong wind was blowing behind us, and we sped along at a lively pace to Halfweg (Halfway), some six miles, in 23 minutes. After this the ice improved, and we fairly flew without a check to Haarlem, racing everyone ; the young lady and her brother arrived first, having covered the 4-1/2 miles in 14 minutes, or at the rate of 3 min. 7 sec. for a mile. Of course the wind claims much of the credit. Passing through the picturesque watergate and round the town of Haarlem, we found the skating beyond as bad as it had been good before. Dredgers had lately thrown up fine sand on to the banks, and the wind, now destined to hinder us, had blown it across the ice at a time when the surface was melting from the warmth of the sun. Anyone may imagine the effect ! This lasted for miles ; our skates refusing to go over or through it, we floundered about in a distressing way. But the lunch at Leiden revived our spirits, and we returned home by train with pleasant thoughts of our thirty miles' trip.
Several expeditions during a fair frost may be made along the fine Amstel river from which Amsterdam derives its name.
By taking the train to the outskirts, the dirty city ice is avoided. The heavy and incessant traffic of skaters and sledges cuts up and spoils the tracks for miles around a large town during a long frost. Once beyond the influence of the city traffic, we swung along and were not long in reaching Ouderkerk. Here is a Jewish synagogue which, I believe, is only accessible by water, in summer by boat and on ice in winter. Continuing along the Amstel it is not a * far cry ' to Withoorn ; then, if the skater is ambitious, by following the Aar and Gouwe across the old Rhine or Rijn, Gouda is reached, and so on by the Ijssel to Rotterdam, some sixty miles' skate from Amsterdam.
We once essayed this expedition on March 2, and to cut off retreat sent our luggage on to Rotterdam. After arriving at Withoorn we accepted the lead of a Dutchman and his boy who were taking a barrel of schiedam on a ' ijsteede ' or sledge. He soon left the Amstel, and then gave us a cross-country gallop along ditches and drains, through farmyards, etc., for hours. We shouted incessantly to him ' Naa Rotterdam,' and as often received a nod and a smile in return. At last, just as we were in desperation and concluded we were hopelessly lost, we emerged at the junction of Aar and Rijn. Our pilot triumphantly pointed with his hand and exclaimed ' Naa Alphen, naa Spoorweg.' It was raining and we were wet through, so we took the hint and were soon in a railway carriage. On another occasion we left the Amstel at Ouderkerk, and bearing to the left along the Bullewijk, came across a fine lake near Abcoude. Here races were being held. After watching an exciting iceyacht sail and some sleigh races, we could endure the bitterly cold wind no longer, and were glad to return home. But there were hundreds of Dutch lasses, apparently lightly dressed, with only a lace cap to cover their heads and with their powerful arms quite bare, standing about as if it were a warm summer day. Hundreds of thousands of fish lay dead beneath the eighteen inches of clear ice. It is said not a single fish in this lake survived the cold and want of air. There must have been one dead fish for every superficial foot of ice along the rivers, and I noticed wherever there was a wake-hole or unfrozen place the water was black with fish crowding up to suck in the air.
Another but longer way from Amsterdam to Rotterdam is by Utrecht. Leaving a series of lakes to the left, and getting on to a large canal which is in course of construction, we found the district as we neared Utrecht more wooded, and passed some very picturesque residences and country villas. From Utrecht we faced due west, and reached a more open country. It was with difficulty we could get through a crowd collected at Woerden to watch some racing, for the people seemed intent on finding out who the foreigners were, and did not realise the fact that we had to catch a train and a steamer. Leaving the Rijn, we skated some eight or nine miles southward and arrived at Gouda, so famed for its cheeses. By keeping to the Ijssel for another thirteen or fourteen miles, Rotterdam is reached. The total distance must be over seventy miles. It is considered the proper thing to skate from Rotterdam to Gouda, buy there a long clay pipe, and return with it in your mouth to show where you have been.
All these trips are to the south of Amsterdam, but certainly the most interesting are to the north. The Y, which is that portion of the Zee which comes up to Amsterdam, and with the North Sea canal cuts off the north-western part of Holland from the mainland, is seldom frozen ; it is, therefore, necessary to cross it by rail or ferry-boat. Arriving by train at Zaandam, we skated one windy day through this historic place for miles. Here are windmills without end. At one bend of the Zaan River there seem in every direction to be whirling sails, overlapping, two and three deep, surrounding us, each sail trying to outwhirl its neighbour, until the sight made one's head swim. It is here that the right of not ancient lights, but ancient winds, is so valuable. These mills are most picturesque, thatched with reeds half way down their fat sides, and the lower part painted bright green picked out by red paint ; they look most comfortable.
On the river the men were busy loading the ice-bound wherries and ships from sledges ; and we met strings of these sledges laden with flour, corn, straw, wood, stone, and hay, sliding along with sails set before the wind. Once out of Zaandam we found the population very sparse until reaching Alkmaar. This is a city of canals ; they seem to cut it up piecemeal, and by means of them any house may be reached, if you take care to duck down often enough to avoid the innumerable bridges. The great feature of Alkmaar is its fine sixteenth century town hall, hung around with bells which chime the quarter hours, and upon which the coming hour is struck, as is usual in Holland, at the half, as well as at the hour itself. Beyond Alkmaar the North Holland canal leads to the Helder through an almost deserted country. In returning, a detour to the east may be made via Parmereid. The last and best of expeditions is along the eastern coast of the Zuider Zee. It is worth a week's travelling to enjoy the sights along this route.
In the winter of 1890 the Y was not only frozen up, but at last it became possible to walk across from Enkhuizen to Stavoren, some thirty miles.
Crossing the Y by ferry, not far from the great sluices of Schellingwoude, which protect Amsterdam from the fury of the Zuider Zee in a stormy passion, I put my skates on at Nieuwen, to avoid the rough ice, and started along small drains, following and being followed by hundreds of skaters. It was a short cut to Monnikendam and across the flattest of this flat country. Skaters appeared in all directions, and the whole country seemed alive with them as they travelled towards all points of the compass. I thought I was a stranger in a foreign land, but everywhere I was accosted by name, and one Dutchman went miles out of his way to show me the shortest cut to Monnikendam.
The town is very picturesque, and the fine church has had a wing altered so as to be used as a post office. A walk through its gable-ended houses brought me to the Zee. Curving round some reed beds, the frozen sea expanded out as far as the eye could reach. A score or more of ice boats were skimming over its rough surface with the ease of a seagull in flight, others were waiting to be hired. I longed for a sail, but had no time. In the distance appeared the island of Marken like a small pine forest, the houses hidden behind the rows of masts of frozen-up fishing-boats (called Tjalks). Around the island really a group of small islands a fence of piles driven close together prevents the sea from washing Marken away in a storm. The houses are crowded on to the islands, the outer ones hanging on, partly resting on solid ground and partly on piles driven in the waters beneath. Owing to their isolated position these islanders have been able to maintain their ancient costumes and customs. The Markenaars are a fine race, and so select as to never marry outside the island. Old and young men, boys and young girls, are dressed alike, in enormously baggy knickerbockers, and it is comical to see son and daughter, father and grandfather, standing side by side, all with hands in pockets and in the same costume. For buttons large silver (often ancient) coins are used. A light woollen jersey, tucked inside the knickerbockers, and a round fur cap complete the outfit. For colour and interest the women eclipse the men. The lace scuttle-shaped cap covers their auburn hair, from which two long curls hang to the waist, and a fringe covers the forehead ; the woollen bodice, of bright green or red, is worked in a fancy pattern, and the shirt is of many colours, whilst even the wooden shoes are painted red or green. Very picturesque and startling they look contrasted with the snow, and when skating vigorously behind their hardly more masculine mates.
Coasting inland along the Zee I reached Edam, and found some races in progress, and I learnt for the first time that I was to compete, as also that Smart and See were expected every minute. They were much disappointed, as I soon left, and continued my journey to Hoorn, passing plenty of stalls and refreshment booths. Hoorn is well worth a visit, as indeed are all these interesting old-world cities, reminding one at every turn of the wealth and power of their inhabitants in olden days.
It was late in the afternoon before I reached Enkhuizen, and the moon was up and shining. Mistaking my way, I found reed beds taking the place of grass fields, and a sea of ice for the dry land. It was the frozen Zee again. The ' spoorweg ' railway runs from Enkhuizen via Hoorn, and tired by a fifty miles' skate I returned by train. Another route may be taken from Hoorn by turning to the west and skating to Alkmaar, and back towards Zaandam as far as Uitgeest, where the train is available for Amsterdam.
Skating carnivals are constantly got up at night in large towns, and skaters dressed up in fancy costumes, often to resemble animals, flit about among Chinese lanterns, and to the strains of a band. It is then that the people frequent the ice in greatest number. But during the daytime the boys and girls of Holland make the ice their happy playground. Trooping out after school, clattering down the streets, they soon throw off their wooden shoes and put on their skates, most of them wearing pattens twice too long for them, which probably do double duty, for parent at night, and child in the daytime.
With ceaseless energy they romp and play games. If a child has not skates, then it is certain to have a little sledge or 'steek sleedje,' which gives endless amusement. With ironspiked sticks they shove themselves along merrily ; or using the affair as a toboggan, one after another with lightning speed they glide down the snow-clad or frozen sides of the banks ; or perhaps employed as a cart, with a big dog harnessed to it, they drive about like lords. But even should they have neither skates nor sledges they must enjoy themselves ; their arms, shins, and backs take the place of runners. In all positions, rolling, tumbling, sliding feet and head foremost, it matters not ! they fearlessly tear down the slippery banks, and clinging together, three or four at a time, arrive at the bottom en masse, a heap of laughing, happy youngsters.
A game which is sometimes indulged in might be well introduced into England. Each player is armed with a hand sledge, or 'ijsleete,' which has no sides or front to it. A number of large wooden balls are placed in two or more rows, some ten yards apart. The object of the game is to pick up these balls, place them on the sledge one after the other, and without allowing any of them to roll off, return them to the starting point as quickly as possible. The one who completes his row of balls first wins. The excitement is intense, for it seems as if the balls have a wicked tendency to roll off, to give amusement to the spectators. Another way in which this game is played is without sledges, the competitors having to pick up each ball in succession and return home with it. The girls as well as the boys are very ambitious to test their speed, esspecially should they come across a foreigner. These pacemakers are found in every village in Friesland, and all day long one can be racing with the young Fries, whose supreme hope is one day to be champion skaters.
I would advise the intending tourist to get a good map of the canals and rivers. That used by the writer is by Smulders & Co., Hague, scale about five or six miles to the inch ; but a better one may be had.
